Im weary of well worn destinations as much as the trap of the familiar. Between assignments in Italy I fielded some recommendations for a place to take a few days off, and ideally on the water. Cinque Terre has been recommended enough times to me to both be skeptical, and warrant a try.

The chain of 5 western Italian cliff clinging villages are connected by easy hiking trails above, and turquoise waters below, referred to collectively as Cinque Terre (Five Earths). Hippy hikers put it on the map in the 60s’ and its been overly tourist trod ever since.

Corniglia is the smallest of the Cinque Terre towns, and the hardest to reach. The slightest resistance will always separate the majority from their goals, and the 382 very vertical steps from the coastal train tracks keep crowds to a minimum. Corniglia is also without major hotels, another obstacle few tourists overcome, and to your advantage.

But there is this ideal studio, two bay windows open to the sea, a concise vinyl collection of jazz and Italian swing, a touch of Ottoman in the interior, a heated towel rack for the clothes you will sweat through, swim in and wash.

You could hike the Ligurian coast north, or south, along the Blue Trail Cinque Terre is famous for, and in 2 hours or so reach the other towns, swim, eat, and take the train back for sunset. Though you will find trails crowded, and the restaurants with illustrated menus in English.

Instead look south to the peninsula town of Portovenere, neither part of Cinque Terre, nor outside of hiking range.

Up at dawn, well before Corngilias’ riotous 7am church bells. 0615 there is the first commuter train south, empty save for the dawn glowing through salted windows. In Riomaggore you can start your 13km hike, ascending from narrow backstreets where you encounter only fishermen. Or you can arrange a taxi from the station ((+39 340 356 5268, about 35 EU, Cash only), to Colle Del Telegrafo (9km hike to Portovenere), the important thing is you’ve made reservations for lunch for 1430.

Unlike the largely exposed Blue Trail, with its sole view of the western Ligurian coast, the route from Riomaggiore to Porto Venere winds its way ever downhill along the spine of the peninsula, under the shade of oaks. The trees break to the east: the Gulf of La Spezia, and to the west the Mediterranean melding to the horizon. You will briefly descend into mountains towns not yet awoken. The trail turns to aged distended tendons of exposed red rocks. Past the sheer cliff faces: tiers of vineyards. Beyond that the constant meeting of the sky and sea.

Your lone companion on the trail is an Italian man in his mid 20s, streaked with tan lines, dust lines, and, a tricolor ribbon pinned with pennants of pilgrimages and Piedmont peaks.

By 1030, the heat of day setting in, the last peak of the hike presents itself, Oak, and fern gives way to warm red rock. Just at the summit, but well concealed is Forte Muzzone, the 1870s built coastal artillery position has found some new antenna-laden purpose, but the exterior defenses are open for exploration and abut massive limestone cliffs. The last .75km takes you past Refuge Muzzone, campsite and cantina. The view you’ve labored so many hours for is just a few hundred meters downhill, where the sparse vegetation gives way to the polished stone jawline of Doria castle, and ending in San Pietro Church, a monochrome Gothic pillar towering from the sea. Below and to the north jagged black rocks form Byrons Bay.

Descending from rambling stone path onto rough-hewn steps and finally onto the clean glowing pavestones of Portvenersi’s Borgo Nuovo district. A sign greets you just to the right of an ancient gate:

“Shirts required”.

You are no longer in Cinque Terre.

Taking the medieval alley towards San Pietro you descend through the battlement walls into the black rocks and cool waters of Byrons Bay. Lord Byron swam from it to the Island of Lerici to impress a lover. You can impress yours by knocking off the funk of many hours hiking in the cool teal waters.

An hour of swimming should leave you another hour of drying in the sun. You packed something formal in your Corbet ruck, and better yet you made reservations a few days ahead at Locanda Lorena for 1430.

Locanda Lorena is just across the bay on the Island of Lerici. No swimming required, they will send you a speedboat. The Riva cuts its way through new yachts and old water taxis, from the central pier to lunch in about 5 minutes. What awaits you at Locanda Lorena goes against 17 years of travel experience with destination dining: Local, authentic, unhurried Italian seafood that’s satisfaction will linger longer than the sun. A days hiking has left you with a sizable caloric debt to pay. The waiter reminds you not to rush.

Fried anchovies, seafood salad, lobster al’astice. A bottle of wine, slowly. Waiters that talk you out of ordering more than two courses at a time, and leave you to finish the local bottle of Tenuta La Ghaia till nearly dinner.

The Riva returns you to the pier just before 5, when the Cinque Terry Ferry makes it’s last departure. You will get to retrace your hike, this time from the water, and arrive at Riomaggiore just as the sun wanes. Take two steps in any direction and you are wearing tourists for shoes. There are lines to board the ferry, lines to cliff dive, lines for gluten free gelato. The line I’d recommend is for the train back to Corniglia, and reanimated by the 382 steps home you can make your way down to the water, watch the sun be absolved by the ocean, the small fishing boats boats come in, the population of the beach dwindles down to two. The sun lingers nearly an hour after sunset.

The only remarkable food in Corniglia that isn’t cooked at home is worth mentioning on the basis of opening hours: Pizzeria Ninzia Elia. Take the Napoletana, it pairs with salt brushed skin.

Two bay windows framing the last red of sunset wait alongside a record player, and another bottle.

Enjoy your road,

-Robert